Rankin in this documentary pays tributes to some of the most iconic images in the past few decades and decides to recreate the images using his own models, this way he can try to capture the inspiration of the photographers from when they first shot the images, and also add his own individuality to the work. This way he can see the differences between his own work and the work of the photographers listed below.
The famous 7 are;
1) Cecil Beaton
2)Erwin Blumenfield
3)Richard Avedon
4)David Bailey
5)Helmut Newton
6)Guy Bourdin
7)Herb Ritts
In my opinion, he achieves his goal very well, it is clear that they have been dupiclated from the originals but with Rankin adding his own style, you can see the comtemporary elements in the shots. I would love to try something like this in my own practice and use other photographers images for my inspiration especially Rankins. However in college I did re-create a few artists images for my Fashion project.
Here are a few examples.
In Style of Bert Stern
In style of Derrick Santini
In style of Alan Gelati
In style of Mario Testino
I got a different view on Fashion photography by looking at these artists work and the fact that you are creating magical and beautiful work when working in the Fashion sector
David Bailey quoted ''Every time you pick up a camera, you hope your going to make some magic''
- This is what I hope to do when creating my fashion set build with my group.
1) Beatons work I;d say was full of hidden wonder when he was shooting and he even stated - ''I created a fantasy - a dream world''
The image Rankin picked from Beatons work was an image taken in 1934 for Vogue
10 x 8 camera
"He help set the template for fashion photography. Packaging a world of decadent beauty and above all selling a dream," says Rankin. He recreated the 1934 photo in Vogue that showed off a white Panama hat. "Beaton brought to it his typical wit and elegance so that what she is wearing is secondary to the beauty of the image." Rankin enlisted the service of pop star and model, Sophie Ellis Bextor to pose as the model as she was ideal for the 1930s and 1940s look.
Sophie even stated how authentic the image is and re-creating it in the modern world will be amazing.
The upside down image meant photographers composed photos in a very formal way - such as; Edward Steichan, Hoyningen Huene and Horst P Horst
The image on the left is the one Rankin took on film and developed it in the dark room and the one on the right he took digitally just incase the film one comes out wrong - but you can definitely see the difference between film and digital. Sophie suggested the digital image looked better due to the pose.
Final - Comparison to the 30's and 2009
2) Blumenfield - vogue cover 1950
Blumenfields image on the left was originally taken in black and white but then edited in colour when printing.
His son states ''the world of fashion is never close to reality'' and I couldn't agree more as the beauty of it lies in the experimental side which is something I intend to do with my fashion set build.
"Blumenfield was all about visual experimentation. He was an innovative fashion photographer of his era and a pioneer for colour photography. His stunning Vogue cover in 1950 shows the influence of the surrealist but also shows the excitement of the country looking forward to the next century," says Rankin.
Rankin decided to use model Heidi Klumto recreate this iconic image due to her chameleon tendencies and stardom.
3) Avedon reflected optimism of 50's america and was the first celebrity fashion photographer
Avedons friend, Lillian Bassman
worked for Harpers Bazaar alongside Alexey Brodovitch - One of the LEGENDS who SHAPED THE FASHION IMAGE
Brodovitch would always say ''Think of a new way of doing something. Force yourself to make the next move, to not to do the same thing you did yesterday today''
+ Lillian stated how Avedon was different due to his enthusiasm, youth and excitement.
Most of Avedons images were taken in paris as America did not have much Fashion
Avedon was inspired by Brodovitch and THINKING DIFFERENTLY - which led him to produce the image below called 'Dovima with elephants''
The composition is perfect - Drama is special
Classic styling with energy and creative spirit. Daring, stylish and ambitious.
His photo of a model with elephants that was in Harpers Bazaar in 1955," says Rankin. He chose supermodel, Erin O'Connor for the recreation because of her tall frame and demeanour. - Rankins version shows grace, beauty and perfect inspiration!
- Rankin used Mamiya RZ67
4) Bailey - thinks fashion photography is sexual unlike Avedon
Rankin decided to re-create the image of Baileys ex-lover Jean Shrimpton 1963 which was taken with a Roliflex film camera
Rankin decided to use his girlfriend Tuuli Shipster
''Before Bailey, fashion photographer in Britain was still a gentleman's trade however he broke through all that bringing an energy, charm and incredible life to his images. Bailey is the perfect fashion photographer combining technical brilliance with sheer force of personality to create photos that have a sense of total spontaneity. He created some of the most iconic images of the 60s and most of them were with his muse and girlfriend, Jean Shrimpton, " says Rankin.
5)Newton was all about sexual liberation
Fashion photographers can be more than just a beautiful photography
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Rankin recreates Rue Aubriot Vogue 1975
"In the era of sexual liberation, pornography going mainstream and conventions being challenged; Newton's voyeuristic images of strong women in often highly charged sexual scenarios often captured the new mood. His pictures also suggested that fashion photographs could be more than just a beautiful snapshot. His images felt like frames from a slightly seedy film and moved fashion photography forward again,' says Rankin. The photo that he recreated is the one taken for Vogue in 1975 with an androgynous and mysterious feel taken in the Rue Aubriot in Paris outside Newton's apartment. Rankin has gone back to the same street for his shoot and is using models, Jade Parfitt and Mollie Gondi.
Helmuts image reminds me of a shot I took in Seville in Spain
Helmets image was shot root of Rio-Paris, just outside his apartment and he used model Vibeke Knudsen whom describes working with Newton as aloof, little distance and he was definitely the master and everyone else was around to please.
Rankin used model Jade Porfitt for his recreation of the shot at 4am in the morning.
6) Guy Bourdin - Hated being photographed as he felt you would steal his soul.
- Highly saturated look
- Dramatic scenarios
-Hidden tension or trauma
Guy Bourdin - one of the most imitated fashion photographers of all.
"His highly saturated look and dramatic scenario seem to suggest some hidden tension or trauma. His influence is incredible not just in photography but in pop culture," says Rankin. He chose to recreate Bourdin's 1970 Vogue cover because it captures the sleazy glamour of his work with none of the admiration of women normally seen in traditional fashion photos. He invited model and socialite, Daphne Guinness to pose for the shot.
"His highly saturated look and dramatic scenario seem to suggest some hidden tension or trauma. His influence is incredible not just in photography but in pop culture," says Rankin. He chose to recreate Bourdin's 1970 Vogue cover because it captures the sleazy glamour of his work with none of the admiration of women normally seen in traditional fashion photos. He invited model and socialite, Daphne Guinness to pose for the shot.
- Bourdin destroyed most of his work and some were not published.
7)Herb Ritts - Changed the way men were portrayed in Fashion
Herb Ritts - who brought homoeroticty into the mainstream.
"Ritts' work has been described as so dark you can see the shadows and the light. He wanted to make beautiful images with beautiful people and in doing so was responsible for the way men were portrayed in fashion. His image 'Fred With Tyres' which was about workers in denim was shown in Italian Vogue in 1984 and caused quite a stir," says Rankin. To recreate this image, Rankin invited top male model, David Gandy who is the face of Dolce and Gabanna.
"Ritts' work has been described as so dark you can see the shadows and the light. He wanted to make beautiful images with beautiful people and in doing so was responsible for the way men were portrayed in fashion. His image 'Fred With Tyres' which was about workers in denim was shown in Italian Vogue in 1984 and caused quite a stir," says Rankin. To recreate this image, Rankin invited top male model, David Gandy who is the face of Dolce and Gabanna.
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